The Charm of Downtown Ellicott City

Some of the most fascinating places I have visited are the small, historic downtown areas, where chain restaurants are nearly non-existent and the town has its own distinct ambiance. The mists in the morning at Carmel, California, the wildness and solitude of Whidbey Island, Washington State--small as they are, each place is distinct and unforgettable.

Ellicott Mills Railroad Station

One of my most memorable downtown visits was in fact 3,000 miles away from the aforementioned charmers.
Ellicott City sprang up around mills and a railroad station (the oldest standing in America) in the rugged hills of Howard County, Maryland. What were once stone row houses now house a variety of pubs, antique shops, boutiques, galleries, and a Victorian-style tea room. Tea on the Tiber (named tongue-in-cheek after the Tiber Alley running past the house) offers a huge menu of teas, ranging all the way from regular herbal brews to fancy orchid-coconut blends. The decor and the three-course meal are an Old-World delight, and include delicious gluten-free options.

Tea on the Tiber

Nearby are Crystal Underground, centering on handmade crystal jewelry sold from the basement of an old row house, and Bean Hollow, a friendly, hippie-esque coffee shop that is not to be missed.

Vintage Bliss

Vintage Bliss, a long-standing boutique on the main street, provides boho home furnishings and fashion accessories. I left with an ornate silver pocket watch on a delicate necklace chain and some real vintage birthday cards. La Boutique de Mon Ami, sells its wares from one of the stone row houses circling old Tongue Row and its gardens--named, I heard, after Mrs. Tongue, the 19th-century landlady when they were tenement buildings. Mon Ami sells jewelry, accessories, and gifts for uber-feminine tastes. They recently opened a little French-style cafe next door, and although the coffee is not French press as I'd hoped, it is pretty good for an American-style brew. (I beg your pardon for my snobbery.)

The Chesapeake Shakespeare Company gives top-rate shows throughout the year, often performing from the phantasmagoric (hats off to you, Poe) stone ruins on the outskirts of town. Their 2011 version of A Midsummer Night's Dream met rave reviews for both the exuberant acting and the creative costumes and scenery.  The Victorian carnival theme provided a visually stunning experience, plus a perfect reflection of Shakespeare's colorful comedic style.

If you ever visit central Maryland, historic downtown Ellicott City is a must-do!